Your Guide to Engagement Ring Design

Your Guide to Engagement Ring Design

Perhaps you’ve recently got engaged and are looking to design an engagement ring together, or maybe you’re thinking about dropping a few helpful hints to a loved one who you suspect may be considering popping the question. 

This guide focuses on four main features that you’ll need to know when it comes to designing your perfect engagement ring: shape, stone, setting and metal. Once you understand the four main design principles involved in designing a bespoke ring - you will love wearing it, every day for the rest of your life as a symbol of your special and romantic union. 

Engagement Ring Shapes 

The shape of your engagement ring determines the play of light in a gemstone. The natural crystal formation dictates the stone shape, and is expertly translated by a master cutter.

What we call the Cut not only determines how precisely a finished gem is fashioned, but also its shape. Here are the seven most popular gemstone shapes to know, each with its own unique characteristics. Choosing your favourite is a great starting point in your custom made engagement ring design journey. 



 A round cut stone is classic and timeless, dominating the faceted gem market since Tiffany and Co created the popular six-prong setting of many solitaire rings like our stunning sapphire Josephine. The round cut is the most popular because it suits many different ring styles, settings and hand shapes. 


Offering a slightly elongated version of a circular round, an Oval Cut stone gives a slimming and lengthening look on the finger. It provides the brilliance of a round, with an elegant twist, and stacks well with other bands.  


Neat and chic, the princess is a perfect square shape, usually set with four protective bezels to avoid chips on the corners. Its strong, angular lines emit incredible light. It works particularly well in a solitaire setting.


Like a princess cut with softer edges, cushions are another popular choice for engagement ring designs due to their large facets and impressive brilliance. The shape works well with multiple stones like the Trilogy HighWire ring, or with halo settings. 


This elongated oval shape works well to slim the hand and lengthen the finger. Feminine and elegant with Art Deco style, the Marquise brings a touch of glamour to its wearer. The stunning sapphire and diamond Marquessa shows off this shape with all the glittering hedonism of the 1920s. 


Another popular gemstone shape, the tapered teardrop of a Pear Cut stone flatters the finger with a lengthening effect. Classic and tasteful, a pear stone looks best in a simple solitaire setting, like this breathtaking, 5 carat HighWire Teardrop engagement ring.


Similar to a Princess, but more rectangular in shape, the Emerald Cut has long facets and layered corners for a strong and bold look. Highlighting its clarity, the long lines of an emerald stone, like our cognac diamond “Gaia” ring, accentuate beauty and precision. 

Engagement Ring Gemstones

The next step is to consider which gemstone you would like to showcase as part of your handmade engagement ring. Whilst diamonds are overwhelmingly chosen as top choice for good reason, there are several alternative options that are equally as breathtaking and captivating. 

An Australian sapphire engagement ring for example, in classic blue or teal, is an elegant and versatile choice for a modern bride with a taste for unique jewellery. A striking ruby engagement ring will suit someone who prefers to stand out. 

For those who just cannot decide, perhaps a combination of two or three gemstones set together in one engagement ring with double the impact is the answer. 

Engagement Ring Settings

When it comes to choosing a setting for your handmade engagement ring, there are many different types to consider, each with its own pros and cons. A classic claw or solitaire setting for example, allows the stone to really stand out, and allows the light to pass through to show off its sparkle to maximum effect. 

A bezel setting is a modern choice that encircles the stone, with a thin metal rim, custom-made to hold it tightly in place. This setting has the benefit of enhanced durability for those with more active or adventurous lifestyles and careers. 

Giving a ‘suspended’ look, a tension set ring will showcase the stone from all angles. This style requires expertly faceted gemstones with exacting dimensions. The jeweller can expertly cut tiny grooves into the sides of the shank that hold the stone in place. 

Pave and halo set engagement rings can provide more impact and boost the appearance of a smaller stone, whilst flush or channel set stones make for a stylish men’s engagement ring.

At Jason Ree, what makes our engagement ring settings stand out from others is that we thread the feelings and emotions of each couple into your bespoke design.

Engagement Ring Metals

The final item to decide upon for your custom made engagement ring is the metal for the band. Choosing this part is just as important as the gemstone type and shape because it will have a significant impact on the style and look of the finished piece. 

Gold is a popular choice because of its versatility;  it comes in three different tones. 

    • Yellow gold is classic and fashionable and contrasts beautifully with the brilliance diamond or sapphire. 
    • White gold The natural colour of white gold “generates a warm neutral coloured metal”. Often plated with another metal called Rhodium to make it look “cool silver in tone”. Wearers are regularly disappointed when this plating wears off and it turns back to brown. This is one reason why we recommend platinum & are expert platinumsmiths considering most jewellers struggle to make platinum jewellery. 
    • The warm, pinkish hue of Rose gold is created by combining yellow gold with a copper alloy. Rose gold jewellery is trending now, and will endure as a beautiful engagement ring choice combined with diamonds, sapphires and gems of all colours. 

Platinum is a naturally white metal with an icy radiance that showcases a sparkling diamond beautifully. A popular and wearable option for engagement rings and wedding bands, platinum is considered the most precious of all jewelry metals.  Platinum is the only naturally white precious metal used in engagement jewellery. It does not require plating so upkeep is free & easy. Platinum is far more durable than white gold, platinum jewellery generally outlasts the original owner & is passed down through generations.

It can be overwhelming knowing what stone, shape, setting and metal to choose for your custom made engagement ring. But the best place to start is by having a conversation with an expert jeweller, and start trying on options to see what feels and looks right for you. 

Book a conversation with us today.